After nearly loosing the filler cap for my Honda outboard I made it captive. The yellow in the picture is aluminium filched from a redundant ‘join here’ AA sign I had lying about. Waste not want not is my motto. I can only wonder why the manufacturer didn’t make it captive at the design stage.
An issue that I discovered when first sailing my boat was that the mainsheet was determined to get tangled in the engine when tacking or gybing.
To help overcome this shortcoming, I altered the position of the twist grip throttle so that it’s less likely to get caught up in the mainsheet and made a copper tube cage to deflect the mainsheet..
The Honda. A little rant.
The little air cooled Honda 2.3 engine is astonishingly miserly with fuel . The one litre tank will last for 3+ hours at a low speed, say, 3 knots. But it’s noisy and heavy compared to a water cooled 2 stroke motor of the same power. The carburettor is made so that the slow running jet is nearly impossible to clean out .The mixture control needle can’t be removed without destroying it and there are too many little parts swaged instead of screwed together. The float bowl is made from ordinary mild steel. All contrived to make it service impossible, so that when some corrosion or muck causes a blockage you’re forced into buying an entire new carb. at 160 quid.
The rocker cover is a mild steel pressing too. Mine hasn’t rusted through yet, but it’s a known weakness and there are loads of rusting automotive bolts holding it all together, most with those very exasperating shallow heads which when corroded slightly are so difficult to grip. It couldn’t cost much more to fit stainless bolts in the factory , and use a non rusting material for the rocker cover and to make the little carburettor fully serviceable..
I altered the run of the mainsheet where it enters the boat. It goes in through the deck now instead of through the transom. I’ve found that the further the mainsheet is from the engine, the less likely it’s going to get caught up.A short piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe was epoxied into the deck for the sheet to pass through.The other end of the sheet is tied to an eyebolt fitted through the deck on the opposite side of the boat.
With the ends of the copper pipe belled over there is very little friction . The rope is a snug fit in the copper tube so no water gets in there. There’s a block fitted under the aft deck to help the rope render through
Another thing is that I cut a piece of sheet rubber from a truck inner tube to block off most of the aft ‘vent hole’ – where the tiller goes through the transom. I fixed it with Velcro ‘temporally’ so that I could easily remove it but it’s been so successful for improving my comfort and keeping splashes out that I shall now fix it with some stainless strip and screws.
If I want some extra ventilation I can easily undo the round plastic port in the transom to get more airflow..